One of the biggest lessons that I gained in Antigua, from my faraway womb location, is that Grandma J goes absolutely bonkers for authentic indigenous wares. I had heard rumors of her legendary consumer exploits during earlier trips to Oaxaca, which I half-believed were tall tales, but in Antigua I witnessed, well, still second hand her inimitable prowess with pre-Hispanic artisans. Here she is in the photo bargaining like an Arab trader for a beautiful little tapestry ornately laden with centuries of deep Mayan symbolism, with a proud, affable vendor who was only willing to budge a little bit in terms of the price range. Grandma J does not purchase priceless indigenous wares for reasons of vanity, to show off exotic stuff to her largely world-unwise suburban neighbors, nor does she buy out of a torturous feeling of Western tourist guilt. She buys specific items because she has a deeper spiritual connection to them, she can suck the marrow out of each beaded bracelet and multilayered wall hanging that she acquires.
The second photo shows a close-up of other items the vendor had for sale, items which embody a masterful understanding on the part of the seller of how an ancient culture's noble traditions can evolve to incorporate modern tourist tastes. Oh, and by the way, Grandma J and the vendor were able to reach a suitable compromise about that tapestry in less than two minutes...
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